GENERATION AND GROWTH

When the wind starts to blow over a relatively calm stretch of water, the sea surface becomes covered with tiny ripples.

These ripples increase in height and decrease in frequency value as long as the wind continues to blow or until a maximum of energy has been imparted to the water for that particular wind speed. These tiny waves are being formed over the entire length and breadth of the fetch. The waves formed near the windward edge of the fetch move through the entire fetch and continue to grow in height and period, so that the waves formed at the leeward edge of the fetch are superimposed on the waves that have come from the windward edge and middle of the fetch. This description illustrates that at the windward edge of the fetch the wave spectrum is small; at the leeward edge of the fetch the spectrum is large.

These waves are generated and grow because of the energy transfer from the wind to the wave. The energy is transferred to the waves by the pushing and dragging forces of the wind. Since the speed of the generated waves is continually increasing, these waves will eventually be traveling at nearly the speed of the wind. When this happens the energy transfer from the wind to the wave ceases, When waves begin to travel faster than the wind, they meet with resistance and lose energy because they are then doing work against the wind. This then explains the limitation of wave height and frequency that a particular wind speed may create.



Questa pagina è stata realizzata da Vittorio Villasmunta

Ultimo aggiornamento: 27/02/16